My friends…last week I was so honored to take you to Asturias, the land of my birth. Every time I talk about Asturias I feel good, I feel connected to my home…so it felt great to share that with you all.
I’m guessing you guys all know more about the Basque Country than Asturias or Galicia or Cantabria, but it sounds like at least a few of you have spent time in España Verde (Green Spain), the incredible pieces of the country touching the Cantabrian Sea.
Philippe G gave us a beautiful story about the time he spends every summer in Gijón with his wife, plus a travel tip:
September is our favourite month, as the crowds from Madrid no longer flood the beaches, bars and restaurants.
So keep that in mind if you are looking to travel to Asturias later this year, which of course I highly recommend! And Philippe also gave us a great restaurant recommendation…
The squid-ink croquettes at La Galana in Plaza Mayor served with aioli are out of this world!
Let’s add it to the map! Lawrence L shared this tip:
“We loved Asturias. The food was amazing and the jagged peaks were gorgeous. Take the cable car to the top. What a view.”
Okay so maybe for our recommendations this week, let’s do something a little different. If you have places you love in the north of Spain, please share them here. But also, if there are dishes or bottles of wine that you’ve loved in the past—I’m looking at you, Albariño!—share them here too! Think about the dishes of the north, from the percebes and angulas and Fabada we talked about last week, to Galician empanadas and pulpo a la gallego (Galician-style octopus), to the famous cocido montañés of Cantabria.
Pulpo a la Gallega, the very famous Galician octopus dish
So: what do you love from the north of Spain…Asturias, Cantabria, or Galicia? Places to visit, dishes to try, wines we should all be on the lookout for?
Highly recommend Pampin in Santiago de Campostela and Silabario in Vigo which has a great Sherry list as well as food. I’ve loved every Fulcro Albariño I’ve had as well.
I am absolutely in love with San Sebastian. I once stayed at a strange hotel on one of the hills facing back into the bay. And the wine there was great, Txakoli. They were very dramatic when they poured it from above to aerate it.
There are so many places I love in San Sebastian, but a hidden gem that is a short drive away is in Getaria. Sitting on the patio at Asador Mayflower is delightful. We enjoyed delicious pulpo a la gallego and amazing fish right off the grill. For wine, in northern Spain, you must take a trip to Haro. There are so many bodegas all along the same road, which is walkable from town. Gomez Cruzado and Muga stood out, and there are countless wonderful Tempranillos to enjoy.
I would be remiss if I didn't share about the amazing meal we had at Arzak. The food was inventive and delicious. They were very accommodating of my food preferences and allergies. And both Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Elena visited with the guests following the meal.
Rebadesella has now taken a bite of my heart---The protected locale-The surfable sea-the freshest seafood (& precebes!), Live Crab from the tank, Whole Monkfish perfectly prepared, French cuts of beef for the table...and of course cheap GOOD wine---friendly folks @ cider bars - LOVE it here!
Favorite Restaurants: El Muelle, El Campanu, D’ASTURIANU and for a classic Old School experience = Sidrería Carroceu- Only drawback is one cannot eat enough :-)---Will return one fall as we heard the weather is lovely then after the tourist season. One stay in Rebadesella will show why it is no surprise there is evidence of Human residents beyond 11,000 years here. What's not to like?!
We flew into Madrid in November, 2022, took the train north to Bilbao, rented a car and drove the northern coast first to a beautiful fishing village, Lekeitio. We stayed for two days at a quaint finca overlooking the sea and town, and walked down the hill to the village and had drinks and tapas overlooking the small harbor and the island in the middle of it. Then on to Donostia. What a marvelous little city! The last trip was just for getting a sense of familiarity, since I had not been back to Spain since 2003, and had never visited the north coast! We are planning to go back for another extended vacation (another month!) in the north very soon, but planning to spend more time west of Bilbao. I am glad for the recommendations of restaurants and must-visit places in the area!
Maruja Limon in Vigo is one of the best restaurants I have ever dined at... worthy of a second Michelin star.
Malauva Wine Bar in Vigo is small, brilliant and one of the most approachable places to sample the wines of Galicia, Ribera and the rest of the world... utterly captivating!
The bar at the hotel Palacio Universal makes outstanding gintonicas with Nordes (Galician) gin and bay leaves as a garnish!
Don't forget to see Jules Verne while you are there!
There is nothing better for me than Caldo Gallego (made at home) but I can recommend any place in San Sebastián for food. Also, for wines—I love the crisp whites from Rias Baixas, but Bierzo is making my favorite Spanish wines right now. Godello is crisp like a Sauvignon blanc—but with a bit of tropical fruit and some slate. So delicious. And Bierzo reds like those from Raul Perez are fresh with real character that is unique to this rocky/slate laden soil. It is amazing they can grow anything here and the fruit that makes it works so very hard . . . Try some.
Highly recommend Pampin in Santiago de Campostela and Silabario in Vigo which has a great Sherry list as well as food. I’ve loved every Fulcro Albariño I’ve had as well.
I am absolutely in love with San Sebastian. I once stayed at a strange hotel on one of the hills facing back into the bay. And the wine there was great, Txakoli. They were very dramatic when they poured it from above to aerate it.
We love San Sebastain so much we are looking at renting an apartment for a prolongued stay.
I'm obsessed with Txakoli!
There are so many places I love in San Sebastian, but a hidden gem that is a short drive away is in Getaria. Sitting on the patio at Asador Mayflower is delightful. We enjoyed delicious pulpo a la gallego and amazing fish right off the grill. For wine, in northern Spain, you must take a trip to Haro. There are so many bodegas all along the same road, which is walkable from town. Gomez Cruzado and Muga stood out, and there are countless wonderful Tempranillos to enjoy.
I would be remiss if I didn't share about the amazing meal we had at Arzak. The food was inventive and delicious. They were very accommodating of my food preferences and allergies. And both Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Elena visited with the guests following the meal.
Albariño, Amen! ❤️
Rebadesella has now taken a bite of my heart---The protected locale-The surfable sea-the freshest seafood (& precebes!), Live Crab from the tank, Whole Monkfish perfectly prepared, French cuts of beef for the table...and of course cheap GOOD wine---friendly folks @ cider bars - LOVE it here!
Favorite Restaurants: El Muelle, El Campanu, D’ASTURIANU and for a classic Old School experience = Sidrería Carroceu- Only drawback is one cannot eat enough :-)---Will return one fall as we heard the weather is lovely then after the tourist season. One stay in Rebadesella will show why it is no surprise there is evidence of Human residents beyond 11,000 years here. What's not to like?!
We flew into Madrid in November, 2022, took the train north to Bilbao, rented a car and drove the northern coast first to a beautiful fishing village, Lekeitio. We stayed for two days at a quaint finca overlooking the sea and town, and walked down the hill to the village and had drinks and tapas overlooking the small harbor and the island in the middle of it. Then on to Donostia. What a marvelous little city! The last trip was just for getting a sense of familiarity, since I had not been back to Spain since 2003, and had never visited the north coast! We are planning to go back for another extended vacation (another month!) in the north very soon, but planning to spend more time west of Bilbao. I am glad for the recommendations of restaurants and must-visit places in the area!
Santander!!!🥰
Maruja Limon in Vigo is one of the best restaurants I have ever dined at... worthy of a second Michelin star.
Malauva Wine Bar in Vigo is small, brilliant and one of the most approachable places to sample the wines of Galicia, Ribera and the rest of the world... utterly captivating!
The bar at the hotel Palacio Universal makes outstanding gintonicas with Nordes (Galician) gin and bay leaves as a garnish!
Don't forget to see Jules Verne while you are there!
The thickest, most delicious hot chocolate we have ever tasted was in the Picos de Europa
There is nothing better for me than Caldo Gallego (made at home) but I can recommend any place in San Sebastián for food. Also, for wines—I love the crisp whites from Rias Baixas, but Bierzo is making my favorite Spanish wines right now. Godello is crisp like a Sauvignon blanc—but with a bit of tropical fruit and some slate. So delicious. And Bierzo reds like those from Raul Perez are fresh with real character that is unique to this rocky/slate laden soil. It is amazing they can grow anything here and the fruit that makes it works so very hard . . . Try some.